‘Every Culinary Artist Must Train Here’: Unassuming Turkish Dining Spot Earns Fourth on Ranking of London’s Top Restaurants.

When compiling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The recognition has left the family utterly shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble restaurant achieving such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.